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This is the Concrete Foundation type articles page at the Parker Concrete & Coatings website. Please visit our main hub website at: www.parkercrete.com.

You'll find more answers to concrete/cement questions and lots of services and products we offer.

 

Concrete Foundations and decorative concrete exterior

Concrete = Aggregate + Cement *
With concrete being the most used substance on the planet, it's no wonder that so many varieties and types have evolved.

But there are quite a few differences between standard "run-of-the-mill" concrete foundation slabs and hi-tech engineered colored and stamped concrete.

Newlook performed lab tests to prove some of the advantages of engineered concrete and cement:


 

Un-Modified Concrete Modified Concrete
Shear Bond Strength Concrete Shear bond strength help
(Strength of a bond between 2 surfaces)
80 PSI 250 PSI
Tensile Strength Concrete tensile strength help
(Ability to resist separation)
210 PSI 925 PSI
Comprehensive Strength Concrete comprehensive strength help
(How much surface weight can be applied before breaking)
2265 PSI 4365 PSI
Flexural Strength Concrete flexural strength help
(Ability to withstand compressive forces)
210 PSI 925 PSI
Impact Strength Concrete impact strength help
(Force required to break the surface)
5 in. Lbs 37 in. Lbs
Abrasion Resistance Concrete abrasion resistance help
(Percentage of surface loss under abrasive wheels)
22.5% Loss .03% Loss
  PSI = Pounds per square inch

*It's important not to confuse concrete with cement. Cement is only a binder (Cement holds things together like a glue.. think rubber cement back in elementary school) which keeps an aggregate (rocks, reBar, fiber etc.) in a stabilized form. In the same way that fiberglass needs an epoxy binder, aggregate needs a cement binder.
Visit the FAQ's Section for more information on aggregates and admixtures.

Engineered stamped concrete has so many advantages over simple concrete flatwork that it's almost impossible to compare the two. Along with the obvious durability and strength, you can count in the powerful mimicry of current building material patterns. Now, the time and price involved with tile and wood flooring are trumped with readily available stamped and colored concrete options... Most projects under 1000 sq. ft. can be finished in less than 2 days!

Concrete Network - Latest News

How to Use Decorative Concrete in a Traditional Kitchen
by: Fu-Tung Cheng

Concrete's use in kitchens and bathrooms may still be considered relatively "modern" design-wise by the standard homeowner. But while concrete can be used to create a modern or minimal look, it's also perfectly adaptable to a more traditional setting — where it was so extensively used in the first place.

Concrete can act as a substitute for more traditional materials. Rather than just using concrete to explicitly re-create something from the past, you can also combine it with other elements to suggest a timeless quality. In my work, I always strive to strike a balance between innovation and emotion, between spare contemporary and warm traditional. Adding mosaic tile along the front edge of a concrete surface, inlaying bits of tile along a backsplash, or even embedding a fossil in a countertop all connect us to the past.

A California cottage we renovated recently moved from "traditional" to "transitional". A large concrete curved wall/counter boldly separates the living room from the kitchen. Meanwhile, a stainless steel integral sink countertop straddles one wall— yet, by inlaying glass tiles into the backsplash and inserting a traditional plate holder in the cabinetry, enough balance is achieved to avoid a conflict of styles.

Let’s take a turn-of-century "Craftsman" style kitchen for a hypothetical example. The cabinets would most likely be frame-and-panel with flush inlay doorframes. There would be wood wainscoting in the dining area and perhaps tile around a single porcelain sink. The lighting fixtures might have beveled glass or echoes of Tiffany lamps. What concrete application would be appropriate in this situation? I would look into one or more of the following ideas in combination:

1. Choose an earth tone color or natural gray. No bright colors.

2. Keep the front face, or thickness, of the countertop at a minimum of 2-1/2" up to 5".

3. Inset "panels" into the front face of the countertop to reflect the cabinet doors. These panels would be no deeper than 3/8" and would measure approximately 1/3" to the height of the front face, or

4. Recess the appropriately sized or proportioned ceramic tiles with some embossing on them into the face of the countertop or into a cast backsplash. Allow the recess to be at least 1/4" in depth.

5. Mosaic tiles in groups of four separated by 1/8"-1/4" spacing could be placed on the countertop surface as inlaid "trivets" next to the stove burners. (In the mold, they would be placed face down on the bottom of the form.)

6. Line the drain board into the sink with tile or marble.

Now I wouldn't want to use all of the above accents — just enough to carry a complementary flavor to the Craftsman look and feel. The concrete itself is earthy enough to carry that load. It's up to you as a homeowner or designer to add the touch that personalizes and enhances the piece. In some cases, for instance, the overwrought "traditional English manor" kitchen, usually full of elaborate detailing, can use a touch of restraint — the concrete counter with a simple ogee edge detail and a complementary white porcelain farm sink might just be perfect.

As they say, it's all in the details.

About The Author
Fu-Tung Cheng, the founder of Cheng Design and Cheng Concrete Exchange, is an internationally known designer and author, who has pioneered the craft of making concrete countertops.
He has published two books, Concrete Countertops (Taunton Press, 2002) and Concrete at Home (Taunton Press, 2005). To learn more about Fu-Tung's work and discover the endless possibilities of using concrete in your home, visit http://www.ConcreteExchange.com.

   

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